Simulation Study of Disastrous Waves Along Indonesian Offshore and Coast Under Roaring Forties and Tropical Cyclones

Abstract

Indonesian offshore and coastal areas are vulnerable to swells from Roaring Forties and cyclone disasters. However, the understanding of the characteristics and propagation mechanisms of local disastrous waves is insufficient, posing a threat to the construction, maintenance, and protection of coastal structures. This study establishes a multiple nested wave model based on the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III. This model includes sole forcing of Roaring Forties and combined forcing of Roaring Forties and cyclone Ernie to simulate the influence of disastrous waves under the Roaring Forties and tropical cyclones in the Indonesian offshore zone and coasts. The following results are obtained. The Indonesian offshore is prevailed by relatively stable southern to southwestern dominant swells and small wind waves under the impacts of the Roaring Forties without cyclone winds. Long propagating swells originated from the Roaring Forties dominate in nearshore coastal waters with deformed directions and strength because of the shoaling effect.

Keywords

WAVEWATCH III / Roaring Forties / Cyclone Ernie / Indonesian offshore and coast / Wind sea / Swell / Wave spectrum

References

[1] 2021 International Altimetry Team Altimetry for the future: Building on 25 years of progress. Advances in Space Research, 2021, 68: 319-363

[2] Aboobacker VM. Wave energy resource assessment for eastern Bay of Bengal and Malacca Strait. Renewable Energy, 2017, 114: 72-84

[3] Aboobacker VM, Shanas PR. The climatology of shamals in the Arabian Sea-Part 2: Surface waves. International Journal of Climatology, 2018, 38(12): 4417-4430

[4] Anoop T, Kumar VS, Shanas PR, Johnson G. Surface wave climatology and its variability in the North Indian Ocean based on ERA-Interim reanalysis. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 2015, 32(7): 1372-1385

[5] Amante C, Eakins BW. ETOPO1 1 Arc-Minute global relief model: procedures, data sources and analysis. Psychologist, 2009, 16(3): 20-25

[6] Amrutha MM, Kumar VS, Sandhya KG, Nair TMB, Rathod JL. Wave hindcast studies using SWAN nested in WAVEWATCHIII-comparison with measured nearshore buoy data off Karwar, eastern Arabian Sea. Ocean Engineering, 2016, 119: 114-124

[7] Ardhuin F, Rogers E, Babanin AV, Filipot JF, Magne R, Roland A, Andre VDW, Queffeulou P, Lefevre JM, Aouf L. Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves: part I: definition, calibration and validation. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2010, 40(9): 1917-1941

[8] Booij N, Ris RC, Holthuijsen LH. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions. 1. Model description and validation. J. Geophys. Res, 1999, 104: 7649-7666

[9] Chen HB, Zhang XW, Gao F. Analysis on coastal hydrodynamics and sediment condition of ADIPALA Indonesia. Journal of Waterway and Harbor, 2013, 34(5): 369-375 (in Chinese)

[10] Cui K, Sun J, Feng AX. Analysis of the spatial and temporal characteristics of sea surface wind field in the north Indian ocean. Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology, 2013, 44(4): 34-42 (in Chinese)

[11] Habibie MN, Permana DS. Simulasi Gelombang Ekstrim Akibat Swell Di Indonesia Menggunakan Model WAVEWATCHIII. Jurnal Meteorologi dan Geofisika, 2013, 14(2): 99-108

[12] Kazeminezhad MH, Siadatmousavi SM. Performance evaluation of WAVEWATCHIII model in the Persian Gulf using different wind resources. Ocean Dynamics, 2017, 67(7): 839-855

[13] Komen GJ, Cavaleri L, Donelan MA, Hasselmann K, Hasselmann S, Janssen PAEM. Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves, 1994, Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 498-520

[14] Korres G, Papadopoulos A, Katsafados P, Ballas D, Perivoliotis L, Nittis K. A 2-year intercomparison of the WAM-Cycle4 and the WAVEWATCH-III wave models implemented within the Mediterranean Sea. Mediterranean Marine Science, 2011, 12(1): 129-152

[15] León SPD, Bettencourt JH. Composite analysis of North Atlantic extra-tropical cyclone waves from satellite altimetry observations. Advances in Space Research, 2021, 68: 762-772

[16] Mentaschi L, Besio G, Cassola F, Mazzino A. Performance evaluation of WavewatchIII in the Mediterranean Sea. Ocean Modelling, 2015, 90: 82-94

[17] Nugraheni IR, Wijayanti DP, Sugianto DN, Ramdhani A. Study of inundation events along the southern coast of Java and Bali, Indonesia (case studies 4–9 June 2016). IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 2017, 55(1): 12-14

[18] Sandhya KG, Nair TMB, Bhaskaran PK, Sabique L, Arun N, Jeykumar K. Wave forecasting system for operational use and its validation at coastal Puducherry, east coast of India. Ocean Engineering, 2014, 80(1): 64-72

[19] Seemanth M, Suchandra AB, Kumarf R, Sharma R. Sensitivity analysis of dissipation parameterizations in a third-generation spectral wave model, WAVEWATCH III for Indian Ocean. Ocean Engineering, 2016, 124: 252-273

[20] SWAN Team SWAN scientific and technical documentation, 2019, Delft, The Netherlands: Delft University of Technology, 1-5

[21] Tong K, Liu J, Yan M, Li Y, Yang L. Space-time characteristic analysis of wind field over the south Indian ocean. Marine Science Bulletin, 2003, 5(2): 5-13

[22] NOAA/NWS Environment Modeling Center. Citing information of EMC operational wave models. U.S. National Weather Service, U. S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Available from https://polar.ncep.noaa.gov/waves/index.php. [Accessed on Jun. 23, 2021]

[23] Umesh PA, Swain J, Balchand AN. Inter-comparison of WAM and WAVEWATCH-III in the North Indian Ocean using ERA-40 and QuikSCAT/NCEP blended winds. Ocean Engineering, 2018, 164: 298-321

[24] Wang J, Yu WH, Xia YJ, Liu SX, Zhang HC, Li JX. Statistical analysis of long-period waves based on wave data measured at ADIPALA of Indonesia. The Ocean Engineering, 2018, 36(5): 108-113 (in Chinese)

[25] WAVEWATCH III Development Group User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH III version 5.16. NOAA/NWS/NCEP/MMAB Tech. Note, 2016, 329: 326

[26] Wu AQ, Yu WH, Xia YJ, Liu SX, Zhang HC, Li JX. Spectral analysis of long period waves at ADIPALA of Indonesia. Port and Waterway Engineering, 2018, 8: 4-8 (in Chinese)

[27] Xu FM, Perrie W, Toulany B, Smith PC. Wind-generated waves in hurricane Juan. Ocean Modelling, 2007, 16(3–4): 188-205

[28] Zheng CW, Li CY. Propagation characteristic and intraseasonal oscillation of the swell energy of the Indian Ocean. Applied Energy, 2017, 197: 342-353

[29] Zheng C, Li C, Pan J. Propagation route and speed of swell in the Indian Ocean. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2018, 123(1): 8-21

[30] Zheng CW, Li CY, Li XQ. Temporal and spatial characteristics of wind waves, surge waves and mixed waves in the Indian Ocean. Journal of PLA University of Science and Technology (Natural Science Edition), 2016, 17(4): 379-385

[31] Zheng CW, Li CY. Analysis of temporal and spatial characteristics of waves in the Indian Ocean based on ERA-40 wave reanalysis. Applied Ocean Research, 2017, 63: 217-228

[32] Zhou JJ, Cao B, Li HB. Analysis of wave characteristics facing Indian Ocean sea area and breakwater construction technical for Java inland, Indonesia. China Harbour Engineering, 2014, 4: 17-20 (in Chinese)

[33] Zieger S, Greenslade DJM, Aijaz S, Kepert JD, Burton A. Hindcasting of tropical cyclone winds and waves. Ocean Dynamics, 2021, 71(5): 559-588