Investigation of the tanning mechanism of mycelial leather alternative with genipin and its environmental impact evaluation

Xinde Wang , Shan Cao , Shenglong Li , Yitian Sun , Wenhui Lu , Yang Wang

Collagen and Leather ›› 2026, Vol. 8 ›› Issue (1) : 2

PDF
Collagen and Leather ›› 2026, Vol. 8 ›› Issue (1) :2 DOI: 10.1186/s42825-025-00224-7
Research
research-article

Investigation of the tanning mechanism of mycelial leather alternative with genipin and its environmental impact evaluation

Author information +
History +
PDF

Abstract

Mycelium has emerged as a promising bio-based material for the development of sustainable leather alternatives, driven by the increasing demand for eco-friendly materials. This work explores the crosslinking mechanism of mycelial leather alternatives treated with genipin tanning, focusing on the interactions between genipin and mycelium fibers. Genipin tanning agent interacts with nitrogen-containing groups and carboxyl groups in mycelial polysaccharides, inducing conformational changes in glycosides and increasing the thermal and structural stability of the mycelial leather alternative. Moreover, the synergistic effect of genipin tanning and glycerol fatliquoring resulted in a more organized and compact structure, with mycelial fibers tightly interwoven. The mycelial leather alternative demonstrated a tensile strength of 6.1 MPa, an elongation at break of 73.1%, as well as excellent thermal stability. The observed improved physical properties were attributed to the crosslinking of genipin with mycelial fibers and hydrogen bond formation between glycerol molecules and the hydroxyl groups on the fibers. Furthermore, the mycelial leather alternative demonstrated strong environmental performance, with more than 50% biodegradation in soil within 50 days. Its incineration produces fewer waste gases compared with traditional sheep leather. This work demonstrates the feasibility of using tanning methods to treat mycelial materials, providing valuable insights for advancing the development of leather alternatives.

Keywords

Mycelial leather alternative / Genipin tanning / Biobased materials / Polysaccharide / Biodegradation

Cite this article

Download citation ▾
Xinde Wang, Shan Cao, Shenglong Li, Yitian Sun, Wenhui Lu, Yang Wang. Investigation of the tanning mechanism of mycelial leather alternative with genipin and its environmental impact evaluation. Collagen and Leather, 2026, 8(1): 2 DOI:10.1186/s42825-025-00224-7

登录浏览全文

4963

注册一个新账户 忘记密码

References

[1]

Muthukrishnan L. Nanotechnology for cleaner leather production: a review Environ. Chem Lett, 2021, 19: 2527-2549

[2]

Dang X, Qiu H, Qu S, Liang S, Feng L, Wang X. β-cyclodextrin-based chrome-free tanning agent results in the sustainable and cleaner production of eco-leather. ACS Sustain Chem Eng, 2024, 12(9): 3715-3725

[3]

Zhu X, Li Q, Wang L, Wang W, Liu S, Wang C, et al.. Current advances of polyurethane/graphene composites and its prospects in synthetic leather: a review. Eur Polym J, 2021, 161 110837

[4]

Muiruri JK, Chuan Yeo JC, Zhu Q, Ye E, Loh XJ, Li Z. Sustainable mycelium-bound biocomposites: design Strategies, materials properties, and emerging applications. ACS Sustain Chem Eng, 2023, 11: 6801-6821

[5]

Abbate S, Centobelli P, Cerchione R, Nadeem SP, Riccio E. Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion industries. Environ Dev Sustain, 2024, 26: 2837-2864

[6]

Hildebrandt J, Thrän D, Bezama A. The circularity of potential bio-textile production routes: comparing life cycle impacts of bio-based materials used within the manufacturing of selected leather substitutes. J Clean Prod, 2021, 287 125470

[7]

Wijayarathna EKB, Mohammadkhani G, Soufiani AM, Adolfsson KH, Ferreira JA, Hakkarainen M, Zamani A. Fungal textile alternatives from bread waste with leather-like properties. Resour, Conserv Recycl, 2022, 179: 106041

[8]

Mogas-Soldevila L, Matzeu G, Presti ML, Omenetto FG. Additively manufactured leather-like silk protein materials. Mater Des, 2021, 203 109631

[9]

Basak S, Shakyawar DB, Samanta KK, Kumar N, Bhowmick M, Debnath S, et al.. Cellulose-protein blended sustainable biodegradable flexible composite: a step towards a leather alternative. Cellulose, 2023, 30: 11087-11112

[10]

Meyer M, Dietrich S, Schulz H, Mondschein A. Comparison of the technical performance of leather, artificial leather, and trendy alternatives. Coatings, 2021, 11: 226

[11]

Fischer MS, Glass NL. Communicate and fuse: how filamentous fungi establish and maintain an interconnected mycelial network. Front Microbiol, 2019, 10: 619

[12]

Jha D, Thakur MP. Studies on biochemical constituents of mycelium and fruiting bodies of reishi mushroom (Ganoderma spp). Int j chem stud, 2020, 8(52724-2727

[13]

Bamba Y, Ogawa Y, Saito T, Berglund LA, Isogai A. Estimating the strength of single chitin nanofibrils via sonication-induced fragmentation. Biomacromol, 2017, 18: 4405-4410

[14]

Islam MR, Tudryn G, Bucinell R, Schadler L, Picu RC. Morphology and mechanics of fungal mycelium. Sci Rep, 2017, 7: 13070

[15]

Li S, Cao S, Wang X, Zhang Y, Zhang X, Lu W, et al.. Investigating the mechanism of Zn cross-linking of chitin in a mycelium-based leather substitute and its performance evaluation. Int J Biol Macromol, 2024, 276 133954

[16]

Joshi K, Meher MK, Poluri KM. Fabrication and characterization of bioblocks from agricultural waste using fungal mycelium for renewable and sustainable applications. ACS Appl Bio Mater, 2020, 3: 1884-1892

[17]

China CR, Maguta MM, Nyandoro SS, Hilonga A, Kanth SV, Njau KN. Alternative tanning technologies and their suitability in curbing environmental pollution from the leather industry: a comprehensive review. Chemosphere, 2020, 254 126804

[18]

Shirmohammadli Y, Efhamisisi D, Pizzi A. Tannins as a sustainable raw material for green chemistry: a review. Ind Crops Prod, 2018, 126: 316-332

[19]

Zhang Y, Yang Y, Guo T. Genipin-crosslinked hydrophobical chitosan microspheres and their interactions with bovine serum albumin. Carbohydr Polym, 2011, 83: 2016-2021

[20]

Arikibe JE, Lata R, Kuboyama K, Ougizawa T, Rohindra D. pH-responsive studies of bacterial cellulose/chitosan hydrogels crosslinked with genipin: swelling and drug release behaviour. ChemistrySelect, 2019, 4: 9915-9926

[21]

Deeg K, Gima Z, Smith A, Stoica O, Tran K. Greener solutions: improving performance of mycelium-based leather. Final Report to MycoWorks. 2017.

[22]

Kamely N. “Fatliquors” for leathers: an application of microemulsion—a review. Polym Bull, 2022, 79: 1977-2002

[23]

Shao G, Xu D, Xu Z, Jin Y, Wu F, Yang N, Xu X. Green and sustainable biomaterials: edible bioplastic films from mushroom mycelium. Food Hydrocoll, 2024, 146 109289

[24]

Nguyen TT, Phan N-HT, Trinh CD, Tran TV, Pham B-TT, Quynh BTP, Phung TK. Glycerol-plasticized chitosan film for the preservation of orange. J Food Saf, 2021, 42: E12943

[25]

Yun H, Kim MK, Kwak HW, Lee JY, Kim MH, Lee KH. The role of glycerol and water in flexible silk sericin film Int. J Biol Macromol, 2016, 82: 945-951

[26]

Tian L, Shen B, Xu H, Li F, Wang Y, Singh S. Thermal behavior of waste tea pyrolysis by TG-FTIR analysis. Energy, 2016, 103: 533-542

[27]

Zheng P, Chen R, Liu H, Chen J, Zhang Z, Liu X, et al.. On the standards and practices for miniaturized tensile test – a review. Fusion Eng Des, 2020, 161 112006

[28]

Esteban B, Baquero G, Cuadros R, Morera JM. Proposal and application of a new method to determine leather shrinkage temperature. Thermochim Acta, 2021, 698 178880

[29]

Madera-Santana TJ, Aguilar-Vega MJ, Márquez A, Vázquez Moreno F, Richardson MOW, Cruz Machin JL. Production of leather-like composites using short leather fibers. II Mechanical characterization Polym Compos, 2002, 23: 991-1002

[30]

Ivanovska A, Reljic M, Kostic M, Asanovic K. Mangovska B air permeability and water vapor resistance of differently finished cotton and cotton/elastane single jersey knitted fabrics. J Nat Fibers, 2022, 19: 5465-5477

[31]

Vikman M, Vartiainen J, Tsitko I, Korhonen P. Biodegradability and compostability of nanofibrillar cellulose-based products. J Polym Environ, 2015, 23: 206-215

[32]

Furer VL, Potapova LI, Chachkov DV, Vatsouro IM, Kovalev VV, Shokova EA, et al.. Study of p-(3-carboxy-1-adamantyl)-calix [4] arene with hydrogen bonds along the upper and lower rim by IR spectroscopy and DFT. J Mol Model, 2020, 26: 179

[33]

Liu Q, Li Y, Xing S, Wang L, Yang X, Hao F, et al.. Genipin-crosslinked amphiphilic chitosan films for the preservation of strawberry. Int J Biol Macromol, 2022, 213: 804-813

[34]

Salman A, Tsror L, Pomerantz A, Moreh R, Mordechai S, Huleihel M. FTIR spectroscopy for detection and identification of fungal phytopathogenes. Spectroscopy, 2010, 24: 261-267

[35]

Yang L, Zhang L-M. Chemical structural and chain conformational characterization of some bioactive polysaccharides isolated from natural sources. Carbohydr Polym, 2009, 76: 349-361

[36]

Xv W, Qiu Z, Zheng Q, Ye Z, Wei T, Guo L, Lin J, Zou Y. Pleurotus geesteranus mycelium proteins: physicochemical and functional properties Int. J Food Sci Technol, 2023, 58: 6633-6641

[37]

Chen X, Wang X, Fang D. A review on C1s XPS-spectra for some kinds of carbon materials. Fuller Nanotub Car N, 2020, 28: 1048-1058

[38]

Olayo MG, Alvarado EJ, González-Torres M, Gómez LM, Cruz GJ. Quantifying amines in polymers by XPS. Polym Bull, 2024, 81: 2319-2328

[39]

Kwan YCG, Ng GM, Huan CHA. Identification of functional groups and determination of carboxyl formation temperature in graphene oxide using the XPS O 1s spectrum. Thin Solid Films, 2015, 590: 40-48

[40]

Ricci L, Umiltà E, Righetti MC, Messina T, Zurlini C, Montanari A, Bronco S, Bertoldo M. On the thermal behavior of protein isolated from different legumes investigated by DSC and TGA analyses. J Sci Food Agric, 2018, 98: 5368-5377

[41]

Wei X, Huang S, Wu Y, Wu S. Effects of washing pretreatment on properties and pyrolysis biochars of penicillin mycelial residues. Biomass Bioenerg, 2022, 161 106477

[42]

César E, Canche-Escamilla G, Montoya L, Ramos A, Duarte-Aranda S, Bandala VM. Characterization and physical properties of mycelium films obtained from wild fungi: natural materials for potential biotechnological applications. J Polym Environ, 2021, 29: 4098-4105

[43]

Cassimjee H, Kumar P, Ubanako P, Choonara YE. Genipin-crosslinked, proteosaccharide scaffolds for potential neural tissue engineering applications. Pharmaceutics, 2022, 14: 441

[44]

Tarchoun AF, Trache D, Hamouche MA, Bessa W, Abdelaziz A, Boukeciat H, et al.. Insights into characteristics and thermokinetic behavior of potential energy-rich polysaccharide based on chitosan. Cellulose, 2022, 29: 8085-8101

[45]

Li J, Chen J, An L, Yuan X, Yao L. Polyol and sugar osmolytes can shorten protein hydrogen bonds to modulate function Commun. Biol, 2020, 3: 528

[46]

Ismail MF, Khorshidi B, Sadrzadeh M. New insights into the impact of nanoscale surface heterogeneity on the wettability of polymeric membranes. J Membr Sci, 2019, 590 117270

[47]

Du J, Wu Q, Zhong S, Gu X, Liu J, Guo H, et al.. Effect of hydroxyl groups on hydrophilic and photocatalytic activities of rare earth doped titanium dioxide thin films. J Rare Earths, 2015, 33: 148-153

[48]

Sudha TB, Thanikaivelan P, Aaron KP, Krishnaraj K, Chandrasekaran B. Comfort, chemical, mechanical, and structural properties of natural and synthetic leathers used for apparel. J Appl Polym Sci, 2009, 114: 1761-1767

[49]

Appels FVW, van den Brandhof JG, Dijksterhuis J, de Kort GW, Wösten HAB. Fungal mycelium classified in different material families based on glycerol treatment. Commun Biol, 2020, 3: 1-5

[50]

Farrahnoor A, Hishamuddini ADN, Yusoff H, Hyie KM, Maideen NC, Fohimi NAM, Zhou BT. Influence of drying temperature in the oven on physical, morphology and mechanical properties of mycelium composite. Pertanika J Sci Technol, 2025, 33: JST-5140-2024

[51]

Guo J, Zhu H, Ma Y, Du L, Gao J. Application performance of bio-based plasticizer for PVC automotive interior material. Mater Test, 2023, 65: 1097-1104

[52]

Bustillos J, Loganathan A, Agrawal R, Gonzalez BA, Perez MG, Ramaswamy S, et al.. Uncovering the mechanical, thermal, and chemical characteristics of biodegradable mushroom leather with intrinsic antifungal and antibacterial properties. ACS Appl Bio Mater, 2020, 3: 3145-3156

[53]

Brabcová V, Nováková M, Davidová A, Baldrian P. Dead fungal mycelium in forest soil represents a decomposition hotspot and a habitat for a specific microbial community. New Phytol, 2016, 210: 1369-1381

[54]

Dong Y, Wang F, Ye Z, He F, Qin L, Lv G. Acid gas emission and ash fusion characteristics of multi-component leather solid waste incineration in bubbling fluidized bed. Environ Pollut, 2023, 335 122249

[55]

Kim JH, Jo AY, Choi YJ, Lee KB, Im JS, Bai BC. Improving the mechanical strength of carbon–carbon composites by oxidative stabilization. J Mater Res Technol, 2020, 9: 16513-16521

Funding

Natural Science Foundation of Shandong Province(ZR2021QB135)

RIGHTS & PERMISSIONS

The Author(s)

AI Summary AI Mindmap
PDF

13

Accesses

0

Citation

Detail

Sections
Recommended

AI思维导图

/